Karen Amundson/Demand Media
Dec 11, 2013 The oven then waits, and repeats. I have taken a look at both of these other threads on this forum: WhirlPool super capacity 465 oven not working. Repair Manual Whirlpool SF395LEEQ 0 - Oven not lighting (photo) And I have read through both of these documents.
CONSUMER SERVICES TECHNICALEDUCATION GROUP PRESENTSSUPER CAPACITY 465FREESTANDINGGAS & ELECTRIC RANGESJOB AIDPart No. Page 2 FORWARDThis Job Aid will introduce the technician to the Whirlpool Ranges. This Job Aid is areference guide for the experienced technician. It is not designed as a replacement tobasic training. Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 Use & Care Manual (28 pages) Standard-Cleaning Electric Ranges, 4.65 Cubic Foot Oven.
The self-cleaning option commonly included in newer Whirlpool oven models eliminates the need for spraying harsh oven-cleaning chemicals and scrubbing tough, stuck-on food. The feature heats the oven so it's much hotter than the baking or broiling temperatures, effectively burning those tough food spots into powdery ash. The self-cleaning options takes two hours for lightly soiled ovens, or up to four hours for heavily soiled ovens. Some Whirlpool ovens also have a steam cleaning option that uses hot water to soften stuck-on food so you can wipe it off. The steam option only takes about 20 minutes to complete.
Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 Parts
Self-Cleaning Option
Remove everything from inside the oven and oven drawer, including any stored pans and the oven racks. While oven racks can be left in the second and fourth positions from the top during self-cleaning, they are best hand washed because the high heat discolors the racks and makes them more difficult to slide. Wash them in the sink with mild dish detergent and a sponge or a steel wool soap pad while the oven completes the self-cleaning cycle.
Clean the frame around the oven door and oven front -- the front-facing part of the oven that the door touches when closed -- with mild dish detergent and a sponge or a soapy steel wool pad. Do not clean or otherwise disturb the gasket around the oven front, because this can damage the seal and affect baking ability later. Remove everything from on top of the range, particularly anything that blocks the oven vent or is made of plastic. Open a window to vent the room, or turn on the exhaust fan above the stove.
Press the 'Auto Clean' button on the oven's control panel; the button might say 'Precise Clean' on some Whirlpool models. For double oven Whirlpool models, press '1' to clean the upper oven or '2' to clean the lower oven. The self-cleaning feature can only clean one oven at a time, with a mandatory 12-hour waiting time before you can clean the other oven.
Press the 'up' or 'down' arrows on the control panel to adjust the cleaning time. After making the oven selection, the display panel presets to an automatic self-cleaning duration of usually 3 1/2 hours for medium-soiled ovens. The shortest cleaning duration, for light cleaning, ranges from 2 to 2 1/2 hours, depending on the Whirlpool model, with an upper range for heavily soiled ovens of 4 to 4 1/2 hours.
Press the 'Start' button to begin the self-cleaning cycle. The door will lock automatically and should not be opened until the cooling period ends -- 'Locked' lights up on the display panel. The oven cools down for the last 30 minutes of the cleaning cycle and unlocks at the end of the cycle.
Wipe out the oven with a damp sponge to remove any ash residue left from the cleaning process. If any stuck-on debris remains, scrub it with an abrasive steel wool soap pad. A mild-abrasive cleanser or a bit of oven-cleaner spray can help lift stubborn debris. Replace the oven racks and continue with normal use.
Steam-Cleaning Option
Remove the oven racks and clean them separately by hand. Clean the door frame and oven front by hand with a soapy sponge or steel wool pad. Wipe up any loose debris in the oven with a sponge. Press the 'Steam Clean' button on the control panel. Press '1' or '2' to select the upper or lower oven in double oven models. Pour four ounces of distilled water into the bottom of the oven and shut the door. Distilled water works best because it won't leave mineral deposits on the oven surface.
Press 'Start' to begin the steam cleaning cycle. Wait for the beep to signal the end of the cycle, usually after about 20 minutes. Press 'Cancel' to clear the display screen. Wipe up any remaining water from inside the oven with a sponge or cleaning cloth. Whirlpool recommends a non-scratch copper scrubbing pad to clean stubborn, stuck-on spots.
![How to use whirlpool self cleaning oven super capacity 465 How to use whirlpool self cleaning oven super capacity 465](https://www.appliancespares.co.za/images/products/22455.jpg)
How Often to Clean the Oven
Clean the oven three times annually if you use it infrequently, or roughly once monthly if you use the oven daily. If you prefer not to use the self-cleaning feature each time, spray the inside with oven cleaner; let it sit for two hours, and scrub clean with a wet cloth.
Place a baking sheet on a lower rack to catch any food drips from the baking dish above when you cook. This reduces the buildup of food debris to help keep the oven clean.
Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 Problems
rich.fromm
Premium Member
Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 Troubleshooting
- Model Number
- SF387LEGW7
- Brand
- Whirlpool
- Age
- More than 10 years
Whirlpool Self Cleaning Oven Super Capacity 465 Manual
[Note to moderator: Sincere apologies in advance if this gets posted as a dupe. I realize that posts are moderated, and that it might not show up in the publicly viewable forums instantaneously. But I have reason to believe that the original post may not have gone through, so I'm trying to post again. Please delete if it is a dupe. I'm not trying to be spammy.]
I have a Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 oven/range, model# SF387LEGW7
The stovetop works fine.
I am having intermittent problems with the oven.
When the oven is not working properly, the behavior is as follows:
For the oven heating element (on the bottom), you can hear the gas start to flow, and the clicking of the electric ignition, but the gas does *not* light. After doing this for a little bit, both the gas and the ignition shut off and wait a while. Then the cycle starts again. If I stick a match down there, I can light the gas by hand. However, other than lighting the gas initially, this does not change anything. It is still engaging the ignition circuit (you can hear the clicking) even after the gas is lit. And after the same amount of time, both the gas and the ignition shut off. Then the same cycle of waiting and repeating.
The broiler heating element (on the top) is somewhat different. The gas and the ignition both start, but in this case the gas *does* light. However, it appears that the oven is not aware that the gas is lit. The clicking of the electric ignition keeps going for a little while anyway. Then, as with the bottom heating element, after a relatively short amount of time (some number of seconds), the ignition and the gas both shut off, and the flame goes away. The oven then waits, and repeats.
I have taken a look at both of these other threads on this forum:
WhirlPool super capacity 465 oven not working. Repair Manual
Whirlpool SF395LEEQ 0 - Oven not lighting (photo)
And I have read through both of these documents:
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/ca8e028c60d9804f85256a8c00621f04/$FILE/4322089.pdf
http://www.applianceblog.com/manuals/DSI_manual.pdf
One problem with debugging this is that the problem is intermittent. Since it first happened (the day before Thanksgiving !), we've been through at least 3 or 4 cycles of it being in this not working state. But once it's working again, it might stay that way for a while (I think we've had an entire week). And right now, at the point where I've started exploring detailed debugging, it is sadly [sort of] working fine.
I went through all of the trouble-shooting in the DSI manual. The various AC and DC voltages at the various terminals of the Direct Spark Ignition control are all within range. The resistance on both solenoids of the gas distribution valve (*) are also within range. Does that tell me anything? Or do I need to wait until it's broken to get any meaningful measurements? Or might the description of how it is broken give a clue as to what is wrong, even if I can't measure it?
My guess is that it's most likely one of these two parts, and not the actual ignitors, given that the broiler element does light, even when it's broken:
Spark Module W10331686 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
Oven Safety Valve W10293048 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
But this is my first time trying to debug an oven problem, so I'm admittedly somewhat ignorant about this topic. I'd welcome any help or advice anyone might be able to offer.
--
(*) I didn't feel like unnecessarily disconnecting the gas line to get to the terminals on the gas distribution valve, which you have to do to get at the terminals from the back. So I took the measurements by removing the bottom storage drawer, and accessing the terminals from the lower front of the oven. This meant that the wires were hooked up to all 3 terminals while I was measuring the resistance. Is this okay, or could it affect the results?
I have a Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 oven/range, model# SF387LEGW7
The stovetop works fine.
I am having intermittent problems with the oven.
When the oven is not working properly, the behavior is as follows:
For the oven heating element (on the bottom), you can hear the gas start to flow, and the clicking of the electric ignition, but the gas does *not* light. After doing this for a little bit, both the gas and the ignition shut off and wait a while. Then the cycle starts again. If I stick a match down there, I can light the gas by hand. However, other than lighting the gas initially, this does not change anything. It is still engaging the ignition circuit (you can hear the clicking) even after the gas is lit. And after the same amount of time, both the gas and the ignition shut off. Then the same cycle of waiting and repeating.
The broiler heating element (on the top) is somewhat different. The gas and the ignition both start, but in this case the gas *does* light. However, it appears that the oven is not aware that the gas is lit. The clicking of the electric ignition keeps going for a little while anyway. Then, as with the bottom heating element, after a relatively short amount of time (some number of seconds), the ignition and the gas both shut off, and the flame goes away. The oven then waits, and repeats.
I have taken a look at both of these other threads on this forum:
WhirlPool super capacity 465 oven not working. Repair Manual
Whirlpool SF395LEEQ 0 - Oven not lighting (photo)
And I have read through both of these documents:
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/ca8e028c60d9804f85256a8c00621f04/$FILE/4322089.pdf
http://www.applianceblog.com/manuals/DSI_manual.pdf
One problem with debugging this is that the problem is intermittent. Since it first happened (the day before Thanksgiving !), we've been through at least 3 or 4 cycles of it being in this not working state. But once it's working again, it might stay that way for a while (I think we've had an entire week). And right now, at the point where I've started exploring detailed debugging, it is sadly [sort of] working fine.
I went through all of the trouble-shooting in the DSI manual. The various AC and DC voltages at the various terminals of the Direct Spark Ignition control are all within range. The resistance on both solenoids of the gas distribution valve (*) are also within range. Does that tell me anything? Or do I need to wait until it's broken to get any meaningful measurements? Or might the description of how it is broken give a clue as to what is wrong, even if I can't measure it?
My guess is that it's most likely one of these two parts, and not the actual ignitors, given that the broiler element does light, even when it's broken:
Spark Module W10331686 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
Oven Safety Valve W10293048 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
But this is my first time trying to debug an oven problem, so I'm admittedly somewhat ignorant about this topic. I'd welcome any help or advice anyone might be able to offer.
--
(*) I didn't feel like unnecessarily disconnecting the gas line to get to the terminals on the gas distribution valve, which you have to do to get at the terminals from the back. So I took the measurements by removing the bottom storage drawer, and accessing the terminals from the lower front of the oven. This meant that the wires were hooked up to all 3 terminals while I was measuring the resistance. Is this okay, or could it affect the results?